Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Porto, Portugal, 2016.
Porto, Portugal, 2016.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2016.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2016.
Nazare, Portugal, 2016.
Nazare, Portugal, 2016.
Del Mar, California, 2015.
Del Mar, California, 2015.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2014.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2014.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2014.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2014.
Tel Aviv, Israel, 2013.
Tel Aviv, Israel, 2013.
Chacala, Mexico, 2012.
Chacala, Mexico, 2012.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.These look better than they are. There was a really strong wind out of the southwest keeping some of the bigger ones open, but its a steep drop and the low tide meant that the waves were draining off a pretty shallow sandbar. This guy made the drop, didn't make the barrel. 
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.Some Outer Banks perfection, if you can be in the right place at the right time. Which is not easy. At all.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.
Rodanthe, North Carolina, 2017.This was a great wave. I have another shot of this guy way deeper in the tube, but backwash exploded in such a way as to basically hide everything except for the nose of his board. 
Porto, Portugal, 2016.
Porto, Portugal, 2016.Porto was cool, but I think I preferred the south of the country to the more industrial port cities. 
Buxton, North Carolina, 2016.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2016. This was either right before, or right after, a fall storm. We scored some really nice waves on this trip, but also managed to rent a house from an insane woman whose alcoholic paranoia resulted in our almost immediate eviction. Which was kind of a bummer, because the weather was unseasonally warm, and like I said, the swell ended up pumping. 
Nazare, Portugal, 2016.
Nazare, Portugal, 2016. I visited Portugal with Amy in the beginning of 2016. The trip, even though it was overshadowed by grandfather's death, was a lovely break from fieldwork. Nazare is a famous big wave surf spot, but we were further south when a decent swell hit. I do regret not taking more photographs of the coast during this trip; I was either too busy surfing or not paying attention to having my camera with me. 
Del Mar, California, 2015.
Del Mar, California, 2015.My parents, with a much younger Java. This was before his surfing days, when he was still getting used to the water. 
Buxton, North Carolina, 2014.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2014. I never take photographs down in the Outer Banks, but this morning we were checking the surf and I guess I happened to have my camera with me. The surf is more fickle on the East Coast, and much more dependent on the tides, so usually by the time we finish the 6 hour drive there is no time for pictures. 
Buxton, North Carolina, 2014.
Buxton, North Carolina, 2014. Really not the best action shot, but oh well, I'm not usually taking pictures at the Lighthouse. This break is one of the best on the East Coast, and one of the more challenging places I've ever surfed. It can get scary-heavy when there is swell in the water, and usually quite bigger than it looks. Doesn't help one's confidence that the locals know it well and rip. To her credit, one of Kara's first proper sessions was on a head-high day at the lighthouse. Lots of trips over the falls. 
Tel Aviv, Israel, 2013.
Tel Aviv, Israel, 2013.Sometimes the Mediterranean is quite amazing. 
Chacala, Mexico, 2012.
Chacala, Mexico, 2012. This was years ago, but I think there was some fishing and some surfing done that day. 
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